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Peat moss & Alternatives |
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Garden peat
Garden peat
is the standard or staple spawning/incubation medium for many/most
killifish enthusiast in North America. Cheap and readily available, a
compressed "bale" would represent a multi-year supply for most hobbyist,
with the excess finding a use "somewhere" in the garden or home. Garden
peat varies in particle sizes within the product and you may want to
sift/sort the finer particles and larger "twigs" from the the useable
portion prior to use. |
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Many hobbyist recommend boiling peat prior to use;
the target affect being reducing buoyancy, reduction in ammonia and
decreasing the water altering characteristics (such as pH drop)
associated with peat. If you do boil it, you may want to save the
"extract" as it has many uses for conditioning coir & hatch water and
reducing light penetration in water. The tannins in peat extract are
thought to have a therapeutic affect on fish, but regardless your fishes
colors will be enhanced when viewed through peat peat stained water.
Peat only has a slight "negative buoyancy" and will fly around the water
column even when slightly disturbed. For this reason, it may be
preferable to rinse out the fine particles a 2nd time prior to use. |
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Jiffy/Compressed Pellets
This
commercially processed form of peat moss is a favorite with many
hobbyist as it represents a exponentially larger volume of re-hydrated
peat in a easily storable compact form. This products primary retail use
is for starting seeds and cuttings. "Jiffy 7" peat is finely ground and
then dehydrated to allow tight compaction. That said, "pellet peat" is
akin to espresso coffee grounds as it has a stronger/more concentrated
impact on water chemistry relative to a equal portion of garden peat. . |
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To neutralize this characteristic, many hobbyist optionally boil it
before use. You may find the smaller particulates troublesome or messy
when used unabated in the breeding tank. A work around is to use a deep
container adjusted in dimensions and clarity for the species of fish
being bred. Or alternatively, a loose nylon/acrylic mop or fibrous peat
as a top layer can lessen the amount of particulates' escaping into the
water column. As a incubation medium, bear in mind that fine peat
compacts tighter (has smaller/less air pockets) and can be stronger/more
acidic than garden peat. You may have to loosen it or break it up prior
to storing your eggs. |
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Fibrous (long strand) Peat
Shown lower right is fibrous peat in the
re-hydrated state
If you should
ever receive eggs in the mail from a European hobbyist, then it is
likely packed in this material. While some European peat bogs may/may
not differ in some ways from their Canadian counterparts, this long
strand form is apparently readily available in Europe. In North America
"fibrous peat" is often sold as a canister filter material or water
conditioner and easily cost over $7 for about 1 fistful. |
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This material is excellent
for resting eggs on top of if using the vaporization method of
incubation, or it is equally useful for spreading across a submerged
container of peat to hold down particulates' while the fish are
spawning. For the latter purpose it can be re-used between spawns if
boiled.
There is a 2nd form
commercially available sold for use in Bonsai. It is midway between long
strand peat and Garden peat in coarseness, price and other
characteristics. It can be used as a substitute for either, especially when particulates are an issue. go
here to
Dallas Bonsai for more info. |
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Oak Leaf
Whether other
hardwood species can be used as alternates is unknown, but one thing is
certain: the leaves of most oaks (Quercus sp.) are fully safe for
aquarium use especially after they have gone though the seasonal color
change and drying. For most hobbyist, oak leaf is a easily obtainable
free alternative than can be used in lieu of sphagnum peat for certain
applications. Oak
leaf contains tannins, and will have a similar, but milder effect as
peat. You can optionally boil oak leaves for a short time to sterilize
or re-hydrate, but usually a short stint in warm water will do the
trick. If boiled, the extract makes a great water conditioner especially
for fish hailing from tannin stained waters. Oak leaves usually release tannins at a slower rate
than peat and in this respect may be a better alternative for small
tanks if that effect is desired. |
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As a substrate/bottom cover, oak leafs offer a aesthetically pleasing
and colorful backdrop for showing fish, as very often the net effect of
the fish adjusting their colors to the rich browns is usually positive.
As a spawning medium, oak leaf is usually crushed and used as a top
screen for finer peat mediums. You can incubate, store, or ship eggs in crushed
oak leaf for short periods, or mix in combination with peat if larger void
space is desired. Bear in mind that the water retention is lower than
peat. |
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Coconut Fiber (Coir)
Shown upper right is the dehydrated/compressed
brick form, often sold for use as "Reptile bedding"
Shown
lower right is coir in the re-hydrated state
Coconut fiber
represents a viable alternative or total replacement for peat moss. In
the case of hobbyist in Asian Pacific area & South America, it is
the preferred choice or likely
the only choice available. While some North American hobbyist have
reported poor/no hatches using it; something else apparently is amiss or
unknown here: since coir obviously works as a incubation media (or many
oversees killifish breeders would have already dropped it from
their repertoire) If your filtration or tank setup rules out garden peat,
or the messy particulates peat presents proves bothersome, then try coir.
Coir is heavier,
less prone to clogging sponge filters, and has less impact on aquarium
water chemistry. Coir doesn't require any preparation or boiling other
than a short re-hydration in water. If you have any reservations about
it's incubation uses, then perhaps prepare it with a 50/50 mix with garden or jiffy
peat prior to storing/bagging your eggs. |
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