New Arrivals FAQ

*this FAQ is just a generalized guide, your best course of action is to always ask the source first and research the species

New Fish/Eggs Arrivals FAQ

What should I do when the fish arrive by mail?

a. Check for dead or distressed fish: if fish are gasping or stressed open those bags first. Shake the water gently to exchange gas
b. Obtain a clean cup that is soap free, open the remaining bags and prop them up inside the box. Ensure the fish cannot jump beyond the box. Now start transferring the water from their permanent tank into their bags, replacing ¼-½ cup of old water with new every 15-30 min. The whole acclimation process should be complete within 45-90 minutes…Alternatively, you can use the “drip method” by siphoning water using a length of airline from your tank to plastic air valve, adjust the valve to dispense a few drips per second into a “escape proof” container (which is holding the new arrivals and their old water).
c. Notify the seller immediately (same day) if you have any shipping casualties. Be fair, boxes left exposed to the elements (esp. in the South West) is not the sellers fault. The fish were packaged and insulated for a 2-4 day transport, beyond that, the casualty rate can climb. Take pictures of the dead fish as proof and email them to the breeder. Many sellers are concerned about the fish and may want you to contact them regardless (It is considered a courtesy)
d. Release the fish into their new home. Killifish can be naturally jumpy, especially in new surroundings. Make sure your tanks are well covered, making sure exit points like the point were the airline tube enters is well taped (yes they can locate a ½” crack). Outside power filters are a “no no”, the fish will leap out like salmon at a waterfall. The fish will probably be hungry and adding a small amount of live food like daphnia or black worms should help them acclimate.
e. Observe your new arrivals closely, especially during the 1st 48hrs. Watch for acclimation stress, appetite and male aggression. Very often, males of some species are very aggressive, and this varies even per individual. Many species are can be hard drivers.

f. Follow quarantine procedures as outlined here

I just got eggs in a small amount of water, what now?

Usually Lampeyes, Pachypanchax, Rivulus, and sometimes Aphyosemion eggs will arrive this way (though many find peat the most convenient way is to ship Aphyosemion eggs). Check for any fry that may have inadvertently hatched during shipping and any eggs with fungus. Remove these (obviously placing the fry in a grow-out container). You will want to take your remaining viable eggs and change out the water. Despite what you may read, there is more risk than advantage in using old tank water. De-chlorinated, temperature adjusted tap water is “usually” your safest bet (extremes can damage eggs); if the eggs are mostly undeveloped, “chlorinated” tap water of the same temperature may actually act as a mild disinfectant. If so inclined, you might darken the water with a weak methylene blue or peat extract (Tetras “Black Water tonic”) and/or add a very weak anti-fungal solution of acriflavin of not more than ½ the strength listed on the bottle. Other additives are not required or recommended. If in doubt, your best course may be to do nothing, just change your hatch water everyday with de-chlorinated, temp adjusted tap. Eggs are often light sensitive; do not leave the eggs exposed to bright light for any length of time.

Back to Top

My eggs arrived today in peat moss, what should I do?

Often annual & semi-annual eggs are shipped and stored in the actual peat the fish spawned in. Aphyosemion eggs may have been hand picked and later moved into fresh peat. When your eggs arrive, immediately open the bag or container; expose it to fresh warm air. If feasible, check for viable eggs using a flat white surface and bright light source.

What you do next, depends on the species (see chart). Some genera/species (non-annuals) will need to be immersed in water immediately, for others: open the bag, fluff up the contents adding air into the peat mixture. Re-close, leaving as much air in the bag as practical. Annotate the current moisture content and the hatch date. The peat should be moist to the touch, but not totally dry, the correct amount of dryness varies by species (ask the seller)…unfortunately knowing what constitutes “too dry” or “too wet” is subjective, and can only be learned through experience. If the hatch date is more than 2-6 weeks away and the peat looks unusually dry (in your judgment), then error on the side of dampness and add a few crumbles of semi-damp peat moss to the mixture (do not add water directly). Again, ensure the bag is sealed with some air, and store in a dark place with a temperature range between 70F-80F (the safest compromise for MOST species), some South American annuals from the dryer northern regions of South America may require even warmer temperatures. If for whatever reason you need to re-bag, just use standard “fish bags”, these offer the safest/best compromise between moisture retention and gas exchange. Avoid “freezer bags and/or airtight containers, the eggs are living things and the peat medium must be able to exchange gas with the atmosphere. Also, storing “fluffy peat” is a safer bet than damp compressed peat (without air pockets)